ONE MILLIMETRE
Thirty-eight of the diamonds on the Brooke measure 1.00 mm across and weigh five thousandths of a carat each. At that size a diamond is smaller than a grain of coarse salt, and it is handled with a wax-tipped pick rather than tweezers because tweezers would flick it across the bench.
They run in a U-cut channel, where the metal beneath the row is hollowed into a continuous curve so light can pass through from below. At 1.00 mm the wall left standing after that channel is cut is a fraction of a millimetre of gold, and it still has to hold every stone.
THE SETTING
The two centres are handled the opposite way. Each is a 0.50 carat round brilliant closed in a full bezel — a continuous collar of metal rubbed over the girdle until it sits flush, with no prongs standing above the surface.
So the piece runs the two extremes of the trade against each other: the most protective setting there is, holding the largest stones, above the most delicate channel work holding the smallest.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 2 round brilliant centres, 5.00 mm, 0.50 ct each (1.00 ct); 38 round brilliant, 1.00 mm (0.19 ct). 40 stones, 1.19 ct total.
Certification — every diamond of 0.20 ct and above ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Full bezel on the centres, U-cut channel for the pavé.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 2.42 g at 14K, 2.85 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
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