THE STEP CUT AT FULL SCALE
A small emerald cut is a flat pane of light. There is not enough depth in it for the facets to do much more than reflect once and return.
At 8.00 × 6.00 mm there is depth to spare, and the cut finally does what it was designed to do. Light entering the table drops through rank after rank of parallel facets, bouncing between them before it comes back — the effect the trade calls a hall of mirrors, and the reason the emerald cut survived a century of fashion for brilliance.
The Francis carries fourteen of them at 1.67 carats each: 23.35 carats of step cut, on a bracelet.
WHAT THAT ASKS FOR
Nothing hides in a stone this size. A step cut has no scattered sparkle to break up the view — you look straight into it, through a wide open table, at whatever is inside. Fourteen stones of this weight have to be selected individually and then matched to each other for colour, clarity and proportion, because on a bracelet they are seen in a row, in the same light, at the same moment.
Between them run twenty-eight round brilliants at 3.30 mm, spacing the large stones so that no two step cuts sit directly against one another. Every stone on the piece — all forty-two — is individually collet-set.
At 35.21 grams of gold in 14K and 27.44 carats total, this is the largest piece in the collection by both measures.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 14 emerald cut, 8.00 × 6.00 mm, 1.67 ct each (23.35 ct); 28 round brilliant, 3.30 mm, 0.146 ct each (4.09 ct). 42 stones, 27.44 ct total.
Certification — every diamond of 0.20 ct and above ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Collet, one per stone.
Length — fixed at 7 inches.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 35.21 g at 14K, 41.42 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
Bracelets are made to a fixed length and cannot be resized.
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