THE PRONG HAS TO GRIP WHERE THE STONE IS WEAKEST
A princess cut has four sharp corners, and those corners are the first thing to chip. They are also the only place a prong can take hold. A claw on the flat of the edge would slide; the corner is the one point that gives it purchase. So the setting has to clamp the stone at precisely the four places it is least able to take the pressure.
The answer is a claw shaped to wrap the corner from two sides at once rather than press it from one, spreading the load across both faces of the angle. Placed correctly it protects the corner it grips. Placed a fraction off, it concentrates force on a point of the diamond that is already the thinnest part of it.
The Janet does this eight times, four corners on each of its two 0.50 carat stones.
THE SETTING
Beneath the centres runs a halo of thirty-two round diamonds at 1.25 mm, set in a U-cut channel with the metal hollowed away underneath so light reaches them from below. The contrast is deliberate: the smallest stones sit in the most open setting available, and the largest sit in the most gripped.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 2 princess cut centres, 4.30 mm, 0.50 ct each (1.00 ct); 32 round brilliant, 1.25 mm (0.29 ct). 34 stones, 1.29 ct total.
Certification — every diamond of 0.20 ct and above ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Corner prongs on the centres, U-cut channel for the halo.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 2.19 g at 14K, 2.58 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
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