HALF A MILLIMETRE, HALF AGAIN THE PRICE
The Maria uses two sizes of emerald cut. One measures 5.80 × 4.00 mm and weighs 0.51 carats. The other measures 6.50 × 4.50 mm and weighs 0.76.
On the wrist those two stones look closely related — the difference is well under a millimetre in each direction, and nobody looking at the bracelet is measuring. In weight the gap is close to fifty per cent, and weight is what a diamond is sold by.
That is the arithmetic behind every graduated design, and it is worth stating plainly: carat weight rises with the cube of the dimensions, so a stone that looks slightly larger is substantially heavier and substantially dearer. A graduated bracelet costs far more than its appearance suggests, because the eye reads millimetres and the invoice reads carats.
THE SETTING
Eight of the larger emerald cuts and nine of the smaller, spaced by sixteen round brilliants at 2.10 mm — thirty-three stones, 11.34 carats. Every one is individually collet-set, which here means three collar sizes cut to three depths so that all thirty-three tables finish on one plane.
The small rounds are not decoration. Two step cuts sitting directly against one another would put edge against edge; the rounds hold them apart and give the eye somewhere to rest between them.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 8 emerald cut at 6.50 × 4.50 mm, 0.7625 ct each (6.10 ct); 9 emerald cut at 5.80 × 4.00 mm, 0.511 ct each (4.60 ct); 16 round at 2.10 mm (0.64 ct). 33 stones, 11.34 ct total.
Certification — every diamond of 0.20 ct and above ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Collet, one per stone.
Length — fixed at 7 inches.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 10.67 g at 14K, 12.55 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
Bracelets are made to a fixed length and cannot be resized.
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