THE CLOSED SETTING ON THE BIG STONES, THE OPEN ONE ON THE SMALL
The Sofia uses both of this house's settings on the same band, and the choice of which goes where is the design.
Its twenty-two large stones are bezel-set: a continuous wall of metal closed over the girdle. A bezel blocks the light that would otherwise enter from the side, so the stone returns a little less fire in exchange for a flush, unbroken surface and the most secure hold available.
Its eighty-eight small stones are collet-set: individual collars that leave each girdle open.
That is the right way round, and deliberately so. A 3.00 mm stone has enough depth and enough table to look bright even with its sides closed in. A 1.20 mm stone does not — shut its sides and it goes grey. The stones that can afford to lose side light are the ones that give it up.
THE SETTING
Twenty-two round brilliants at 3.00 mm anchor the band, with forty-four stones at 1.30 mm and forty-four at 1.20 mm filling between them — four small diamonds to every large one, in two sizes so the field graduates rather than stopping abruptly at the bezel wall.
One hundred and ten stones, 3.21 carats, on 5.94 grams of gold in 14K.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 22 round at 3.00 mm, 0.11 ct each (2.42 ct); 44 round at 1.30 mm (0.44 ct); 44 round at 1.20 mm (0.35 ct). 110 stones, 3.21 ct total.
Certification — these are melee diamonds and are not individually certified, which is standard practice at this size.
Setting — Full bezel on the large stones, collet throughout the pavé.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 5.94 g at 14K, 6.99 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
Because the diamonds encircle the entire band, an eternity ring cannot be resized once it has been produced. Please size carefully before ordering.
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