NINETY-ONE SEATS AND NOTHING BEHIND THEM
Most set stones have metal behind them. A seat cut into a solid band is supported from below and on every side, so when the setter closes a prong the band absorbs the force and nothing else moves. The Tracy has no solid band. It is openwork — light passes straight through it — and each collet is a node in a lattice, held only by the thin members running to the collets on either side.
That changes the order of the work. A seat is no more rigid than its neighbours, and every stone set adds load to the structure the next one goes into. The first is straightforward. The ninety-first is closed on a lattice that has already been worked ninety times, with nothing solid beneath it to push against.
THE PATTERN
Four cuts across a band 9.06 mm wide, and a count that divides one way only: ninety-one stones as thirteen repeats of seven. Each repeat carries a marquise along the top edge and another along the bottom, a princess above the centre line and another below it, an oval on the centre line itself, and two round brilliants closing the gaps. Thirteen ovals, twenty-six of everything else.
The princess cuts are set on point rather than square, so each turns a corner toward the centre line instead of an edge. That is what makes the band read as a weave rather than as rows — the on-point squares interlock with the pointed ends of the marquise, and the ovals occupy the openings left between them.
THE SETTING
Collet throughout, ninety-one times, each collar cut to the outline of the particular stone it holds — four different outlines, since no cut here shares a shape with another. The band finishes 9.06 mm wide and 2.95 to 3.15 mm through the profile, and carries 4.13 grams of gold at 14K. It is a wide ring that is not a heavy one; most of its volume is the openings.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 26 marquise, 3.50 × 1.75 mm, 0.035 ct each; 26 princess, 2.00 mm, 0.05 ct each; 26 round brilliant, 0.90 mm, 0.004 ct each; 13 oval, 3.00 × 2.00 mm, 0.045 ct each. 91 stones, 2.90 ct total.
Certification — these are melee diamonds and are not individually certified, which is standard practice at this size.
Setting — Collet, one per stone.
Band — 9.06 mm wide, 2.95–3.15 mm at the profile. 17.33 mm inner diameter at size 7. Openwork.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 4.13 g at 14K, 4.86 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
Because the diamonds encircle the entire band, an eternity ring cannot be resized once it has been produced. Please size carefully before ordering.
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