BOXED AT THE GIRDLE, OPEN UNDERNEATH
Below the girdle of the Elspeth's princess cut the gold closes right round the stone: four straight walls under the diamond's four edges, meeting at the corners. Each runs the full 5.54 mm of a straight diamond edge, so the stone is seated along its sides rather than only pinched at its points.
Directly beneath that square there is nothing. Short of the seat each shoulder divides into two legs, and the collet is carried on the four of them, leaving a triangular opening on each side that lets light into the pavilion. The head stands 5.50 mm above the shank and measures 6.73 mm across the outside of the corner claws.
The band itself is a flat strap, 1.80 mm wide and 1.50 mm thick, square at the edges and flat inside, broadening only where the shoulders climb. Nothing is set on it and nothing is worked into it, and the finished ring weighs 2.00 grams at 14K.
THE SETTING
A round collet is one continuous curve and can be turned. A square one is four separate straight runs that have to finish flush where they meet, and a flat wall forgives nothing: where a curve absorbs a few hundredths of a millimeter, an error here opens along the side as a widening line.
At each corner a claw rises off the fork and folds over the point of the square, finishing in a rounded bead. Between the beads the edges are not left bare: the collet wall carries on behind them, so every side of the diamond is supported for its whole length as well as caught at both ends.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 1 princess cut center, 5.54 × 5.54 mm, 1.00 ct. 1.00 ct total.
Certification — the 1.00 ct princess cut center diamond ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Square collet beneath the girdle, a claw and rounded bead at each corner; forked shoulders, open beneath.
Band — 1.80 mm wide, 1.50 mm at the profile. The head stands 5.50 mm above the shank and measures 6.73 mm across the corner claws. 15.30 mm inner diameter.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 2.00 g at 14K, 2.35 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
The band has a plain section of gold, so this ring can be resized: one complimentary resize is included within 60 days of purchase.
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