AN OPEN HEAD CUT FROM A SOLID COLLAR
Most open solitaire heads are built up: four posts and a slim rail of gold below the girdle, the gaps simply what is left between them. The Susannah works the other way. Under the diamond stands a continuous collar of metal with most of it cut away — a rim of pointed petals, joined at the base and open between their points.
That rim is the ring's only ornament, and none of it shows from above. Straight down there is a round brilliant of 7.40 mm and 1.50 carats, four small claws on the diagonals, and two plain blades of gold narrowing to a point at the girdle. Turned to the side, the head is a flower, and each shoulder repeats the same pointed outline before the band — 2.50 mm wide, 1.64 mm deep — runs plain to the base.
THE SETTING
Reaching an open head this way is slower. On a built-up basket the openings are where no metal was put; here each one had to be taken out, and every point on the rim is an edge that had to be made, then finished on an inside face a polishing wheel reaches awkwardly.
The four claws hold the stone on their own, clear of that rim, each closing over the girdle in a small rounded tip. The petals rise to points directly behind them, which is why the head reads as six-clawed at an angle and as four from overhead. It stands 6.37 mm from the shoulders to the top of the diamond, high enough for light to pass under the pavilion and out between the points.
SPECIFICATIONS
Diamonds — 1 round brilliant center, 7.40 mm, 1.50 ct. 1.50 ct total.
Certification — the 1.50 ct round center diamond ships with its certificate: GIA for natural, IGI for lab-grown.
Setting — Four claws with rounded tips on the diagonals, over a collet cut back into points; cathedral shoulders.
Band — 2.50 mm wide, 1.64 mm at the profile. The head stands 6.37 mm from the shoulders to the top of the stone. 16.07 mm inner diameter.
Metal — 14K or 18K gold, in yellow, white or rose. 2.89 g at 14K, 3.40 g at 18K.
Diamond origin — natural or lab-grown, to preference.
Made to order. Two to three weeks from order to dispatch.
The band has a plain section of gold, so this ring can be resized: one complimentary resize is included within 60 days of purchase.
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